Mehrangarh, Jodhpur
One among the largest in Rajasthan is the fort at Jodhpur named Mehrangarh – the citadel of the Sun. The Rathore Rajputs of Marwar who built it consider themselves the descendants of the Sun god. The fort was christened Mihir Garh which changed to Mehrangarh in the localised version of the dialect.
What the 15th ruler of the dynasty, Rathore Rao Jodha started in 1459 as a falsa (an enclosure) took some 500 years to get to its present shape and structure. Various rulers added to what was left behind by their predecessors. Even the present notional ruler is said to have added something to the fort by installing an elevator for the elderly. You need to pay INR 50 to take a ride. I, however, walked up to the top.
This red sandstone fort is huge with large halls, intricate carvings, filigree like delicately done walls, and beautiful blue paintings on the ceiling and inside walls.
The history has it that one low caste man Raja Ram Meghwal was buried alive in the foundations of the fort as rulers of that era believed in human sacrifices to propitiate gods in order to ensure overall welfare of the people. Human sacrifice is one blinding feature of Hinduism though not exclusive to it.
Another blot on the religion of the Hindus (this one is exclusive with no parallels elsewhere) is the practice of sati (self immolation by a woman at the pyre of her dead husband). There are handprints of some queens on a wall who burnt themselves alive along with the dead bodies of their deceased husbands.
One day is enough to do Jodhpur. Apart from Mehrangarh one can visit Jaswant Thada which stands nearby. Visiting the Umaid Bhawan is a sheer waste of time. Nothing to see over there. They just make a fool of the tourist by showing only one corner of the palace. Don’t waste your money and time in an effort to see the palace. You will be disappointed.
Some Photographs
Jaswant Thada |
Umaid Bhawan Palace |
The Clock Tower, Jodhpur |
(visited Dec 2018)
Very impressive account of the gem of a fort in the desert. Photographs are stunning.
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