Discrimination starts at God's house.

Istiqlal Mosque, Jakarta, Indonesia.

Istiqlal (independence) mosque is the largest mosque in SE Asia with a capacity to accommodate 120,000 worshippers at any time. It is a grand structure both inside and outside. The dome and minarets are visible from a distance in central Jakarta and the interiors are quite modern unlike the usual classic look of prayer houses. It is the national mosque of Indonesia situated in central Jakarta near the Merdeka Square just a small distance towards the north from the National Monument (Monas)

While in the city I decided to visit the mosque out of sheer curiosity about its size and to photograph the interiors, particularly the dome. I have been to many mosques in India where photographing the arched interiors is always a joy.

When I entered the outer fence gate of the Istiqlal mosque someone came forward to offer his services as a guide but I was not interested. He followed me up to the main entrance perhaps hopeful of extracting some money but didn’t cut any ice with me. At the main entrance, I removed my shoes and socks, tucked those into my backpack and went inside like many others were going.

I went straight to the prayer hall where men and women are segregated for the purpose of sitting or offering prayers. It is an enormous hall with a beautiful gold coloured dome. It was the month of Ramadan and there were many people inside the prayer hall; some offering prayers and most of the others either idling around or playing video games and clippings on their cell phones.

Discrimination starts at God’s house

While I was engrossed in photography someone came near me and asked something which I didn’t understand. He spoke in Indonesian. When I said sorry I don’t understand or speak Bahasa he switched over to English and asked me where I was from which I answered and then he asked, “Are you a Muslim?” I said no. “Have you registered yourself at the entrance?”, he enquired. My answer was in the negative. “Non-Muslims are not allowed inside the prayer hall”, he said asking me to follow him. Though the man appeared decent and soft spoken yet I sensed danger. I have known Indonesia to be a tolerant and secular country as far as traditions and customs go. The Indonesian lifestyle is more driven by culture than religion. But in Islam, anything can be interpreted as blasphemy and the accused could face trial by the Sharia. This thing struck my mind but unmindful I followed the man out of the prayer hall. He simply asked me to register myself at a counter near the main door. I wrote down my particulars in the register. India, aha, the man exclaimed and then we two sat on the bench and had a friendly chat. The man was a caretaker/enforcer of the religious code inside the mosque. They direct all foreigners upstairs to have a look at the interiors of the mosque. Only Muslims are allowed inside the prayer hall.