Visiting Egypt

Visiting Egypt

If you know there is only one (of the seven) ancient wonder of the world standing today and you are curious to see it, then you know it very well where to find it. The wonder is the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. However, Egypt is home not only to the pyramids but also to a civilization that has its roots deep into an era endowed with the origins of humans on the planet.

A Pharaoh kissing the mummy of his predecessor

It was long back when as an avid reader I came across the classic ‘Egyptian Earth’ by A R Sharqawi which aroused my interest in Egypt and I never missed an opportunity thereafter to know more about that country. My curiosity culminated in making a trip to the land of Pharaohs in November 2019. I drew up a thirteen day itinerary to cover most of the places of interest in the country. Let me admit it at the outset that a two week itinerary is not enough to see everything in Egypt but barely sufficient to uncover the tip of the tourist iceberg in Egypt.

Of the thirteen day itinerary I had only ten days to explore the attractions. My travel map covered Cairo (Giza, Dahshur, Saqqara, Memphis, Egyptian Museum, Cairo old and new), Luxor (Karnak, the Thebes, Luxor temple), Aswan (Philae, Edfu, Kom Ombo), and Abu Simbel.

I hadn’t planned Hurghada, Suez, Alexandria, Sharm-el-Sheikh, or a visit to anywhere in the desert. I covered the tourist destinations along the Nile. However, despite my best efforts I couldn’t do Al Fayoum and Dendera – the two destinations which I had initially on my list but couldn’t properly carry out my plan. For a traveller even the best plans can go awry as planning on paper and actually laying it out on the ground depends upon so many factors that may not be conducive all the time. I think one shouldn’t miss Dendera when touring Egypt.

Getting Egypt Visa

To obtain a tourist visa for Egypt apply with the visa application form duly filled in with a cover letter, a 4cm x 6 cm colour photograph, confirmed to and fro flight tickets, hotel reservations, detailed itinerary, proof of funds (bank statements for the last three months) and a character certificate from local police. They don’t ask for travel medical /health insurance or the IT returns. The fee for single entry is INR 1900 and for multiple entries, INR 2700. I lodged my file along with the passport and collected my passport back with the visa sticker after four days (given date). The visa is valid for 90 days and the period commences with the date of journey as per the itinerary / confirmed ticket. Passing through the immigration at the Cairo airport was a breeze.

Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt is situated at 1-50 M, Niti Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi.

Cairo

Mummy of King Yuya

One full day is required to do Giza. There are three major pyramids, including the great one, the Sphinx, and the desert around the pyramids. For photography enthusiasts, it is a great reason to roam around the location. It would be worthwhile to book a hotel in Giza facing the pyramids for a great view of the pyramids and a spectacular light and sound show for free from the hotel rooftop. Hotel Hyat Pyramids View is one such strategically located property. I stayed there. The hotel accommodation is very good with extremely friendly staff. They offer a free pick and drop service to the airport too.

Mummy of queen Thuya

Another day would be required to do the old places like Dashahur, Saqqara, and Memphis. The bent pyramid at Dahashur has the longest tunnel which every visitor ought to go through to have an awesome view of the interior of the pyramid. The passage is the longest and probably the toughest to negotiate. I had read about it and while there I enquired from the visitors who had just returned from the inside about the experience. Almost everyone called it a tough task to do the interior of the pyramid. However, I didn’t find anything of that sort. I walked in, up and down, to the last point where they had the burial chamber without any discomfort. I experienced nothing like a tiring walk or feeling giddy etc. It was a normal walk and the experience of going inside a pyramid was so fulfilling. I enjoyed it greatly.

The tunnel down the bent pyramid at Dahshur

The Egyptian Museum in the heart of the city (by the famous Tahrir Square) should never be missed. In fact, this visit offers you the essence of being in the land of Pharaohs with a purpose. Try and spare half a day for the museum and the rest for doing the Coptic and Islamic parts of the city. To do the museum meaningfully, take a guide. I had a private tour with a guide, Ms Reda, who explained things very nicely.

Luxor

While Cairo has the essence of all that can be called Egyptian civilization and history, Luxor is the place from where all that originates. Luxor is the building block of the land of Pharaohs.

Flying into Luxor by an early morning flight from Cairo and checking into a hotel took me more than half a day. In the afternoon I could do only the Luxor temple but I managed to squeeze in a felucca ride in the Nile in the evening.

After that it took me two full days to cover sites like the Colossi of Memnon, Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, the mortuary temple of Hatshepsut, Ramaseum, the temple of Seti I, Medinet Habu and Karnak. It was so tight a schedule that I had to give a miss to tombs of the nobles. I had read that people do all that and more in one day but not for me. I am a slow mover and do things at leisure so as to enjoy to the fullest.

On a visit to the valley of the kings, one has to choose only three tombs. A list of tombs open for the day is displayed. You pick out three (there are 66 in all). For each additional tomb, you have to pay EGP 100 extra. King Tut’s tomb has a special ticket. The tomb is relatively smaller. The mummy is kept there in a glass case outside the sarcophagus. I visited the tombs of Merenptah, Ramases IV, and Ramases IX besides King Tut’s. All these are rock cut tombs with attractive, storytelling paintings and hieroglyphs on the walls and ceilings.

The camera tickets are sold at exorbitant prices. However, the funny thing is that they don’t allow camera photography inside Tutankhamun’s tomb even with a camera ticket. You can use your mobile to click photos but not the camera. As ridiculous as it might seem, but despair not, there’s a way out. The guards are there to help you with that, of course, for a consideration. Call it a tip, fee, bribe or gratification, your money can work wonders. You can go inside the sarcophagus too (not Tut’s though as it is covered) and get yourself photographed like I did in the Merenptah’s.

Ba - the soul, that leaves Pharaohs's body

Similarly, the entry fee to queen Nefertari's tomb in the valley of queens is ridiculously high. It is EGP1240 and no photography is allowed. I skipped this but it is a well recommended and much hyped tomb. And I was not alone to give it a miss. A few tourists from Europe did the same, stating that it was like fleecing the tourists. Luxor is the destination where tourists are cheated the most.

Medinet Habu and Karnak temple are the two must visit places in Luxor. These are grand complexes with awesome architecture and stone carvings.

Aswan

The Falcon god Horus

There are no direct flights from Luxor to Aswan. However, rail, road, and waterway connectivity is available. I took a cab because I had to do Edfu and Kom Ombo enroute from Luxor to Aswan. Taxi drivers will ask for anything from 1200 to 1500 Egyptian Pounds for one way to Aswan with Edfu and Kom Ombo thrown in. However, you should put your haggling skills in top gear to get a fair deal. I got a cab for 750 with another EGP 50 for tea and tips for the driver – that’s 800 in all. I was in Aswan in the afternoon in time for a felucca ride and walking down the boulevard.

My attractions for the next day (second day in Aswan) were the Philae temple (dedicated to goddess Isis) and the unfinished Obelisk.

The third day in Aswan is exclusively for the trip to Abu Simbel and back. You have to book a tour and they provide a 16 seater minibus for the trip. It is fairly comfortable and they give two hours to visit the relocated temple of Pharaoh Ramses II and queen Nefertari. I think the time limit of two hours is barely sufficient as there’s not much to see around except for the two temples. Abu Simbel is located close to the Sudanese boarder and the police checks are there for the safety of the tourists.

Ramases the geat slaying enemy in the battlefield

Abu Simbel & back to Cairo

After spending ten nights and eleven days I flew back to Cairo for the last night of my Egypt sojourn. I stayed at hotel Le Passage Casino and the next day took the Etihad flight back home via Abu Dhabi.

Experience / Observations.

- - Egypt is not cheap to visit. The closest comparison I can make with is Jordan. Egypt is 1.5 times expensive than Jordan. Despite that, hotel standards are not comparable to Jordan.

- - The Cairians are friendly people while in Luxor one gets the feeling of being preyed upon. There everyone is after your money; by coercion, heckling, or even begging.

Ramases II punishing war captives

- - You can pay money and have your way. They openly ask for tips.

- - In Abu Simbel they overcharge you at the ticket window. They will hand you a guide ticket worth EGP13 and tell you that a guide was available. However, no one is available. I tried to find one, but all in vain. If you find a guide to take you there he will not recognize that ticket and ask for a fee. They are under no obligation. Tourists are being cheated at Abu Simbel.

Karnak pillars

- - The Tourist Police is everywhere but not always proactive. However, once approached, they are very helpful. I observed this at the Karnak temple parking where a tourist couple was in an unpleasant situation due to some altercation with taxi drivers. Someone alerted the tourist police and that put an end to their suffering. I was watching all this. Later, the couple told me that the police asked for a tip from them and they happily obliged.

- - All the destinations from Cairo upstream the Nile to Abu Simbel can be done by cruise too. However, I haven’t explored that option.

A Surprise

There’s a strong connection between the Romans and the Egyptians. The Roman Christians are said to have disfigured many of the Egyptian stone carvings. I wonder how the same chisel that was used to carve out the figures so precious and charming was also used to destroy the same carvings.

It is utterly surprising to believe that Alexander the Great- a Greek, had declared himself Pharaoh. Unpalatable, isn’t it?